Programme
Tuesday 5th August
7:45 – 8:45 Registration (main entrance of the faculty)
9:00 – 9:30 Opening of the symposium
9:30 – 10:30 Oral session: Motor learning - chair L. SEIFERT
S. KÜNZELL, P. MATROS: The Theory of Internal Models for Motor Learning and Motor Control: Theoretical Framework and Practical Implications
for Sport Climbing
10:30 – 11:00 Coffee break
11:00 – 12:30 Oral session: Nutrition - chair G. Grønhaug
L. JOUBERT, A. CHMIELEWSKA, M. MICHAEL: Bight Size Nutrition: Tying in with Scientific Evidence
12:30 – 14:00 Lunch
14:00 – 15:30 Poster session: biomechanics, video analysis - chair V. VEREIDE
L. SEIFERT: Toward inter-limb coordination analysis in bouldering: Pose estimation vs. notational analysis vs. contact time from instrumented holds
E. BONELLI: Muscle excitation and force distributions of a climber in typical positions
B. O’MARA: Enhancing Rock Climber Skill Assessment with Machine Learning and Contact Force Analytics
F. EBENHOCH: Assisted Speed Training in Elite Speed Climbing: A Novel Approach using the 1080 Sprint
P. WOLF: Automated Video Assistant Referee in Lead Climbing
H. AHMAD SIMAB: Detecting Amateur and Professional Speed Climbers based on Wavelet and Support Vector Machine
S.A. HOSSEINI: Kinematic analysis of the starting phase in speed climbing
J. EXEL: Advancing climbing science with musculoskeletal simulations for broadening the understanding of internal joint loads
M. OCHOA MARCOS: Statistical Analysis in Sport Climbing: Trends, Application and Benefits
A. KAWAMURA: Comparison of Advanced and Intermediate Climbers on Dyno Technique using Force Measurement System
15:30 – 16:00 Coffee break
16:00 – 19:00 Prague Adventure Orienteering
Wednesday 6th August
8:30 – 10:00 Oral session: Training - chair P. MATROS
T. JAVORSKÝ, T. PERRIN, F. EBENCHOCH: Blood Flow Restriction Training: Mechanisms, Adaptations, and Performance Implications
10:00 – 10:30 Coffee break
10:30 – 12:00 Oral session: Diagnostics - chair P. WOLF
K. LANGER, S. HALENKE, M. WINKLER: Climbing diagnostics - The gorge and the bridge between science and practice
12:00 – 13:30 Lunch
13:30 – 15:00 Poster session: Training and testing - chair M. WINKLER
H. Di DOMENICO: The ICUL Test: Ending Warm-Up with a Serious Game to Assess Climbing Endurance
E. PIRODON: The RACLET: A Submaximal Test to Assess Climbing Endurance
F. BERTAULD: A simple method for measuring upper limb force-velocity profiles, applicable to all levels climbers.
J. FLEURY: Effects of Ischemic Preconditioning on Rock Climbing Performance
T. FORRER: Effects of Acute Moderate Hypoxia on Finger Flexor Strength in Climbers
M. KOVÁČ: General and specific performance testing in elite and national level young climbers,
M. BĚHOUNEK: One-Arm Maximal Isometric Pull: ValidIty and Reliability of Shoulder Strength Test in Sport Climbers
M.S. DEDING: Relationship between Climbing-Specific Strength Measures and Perf. in a Standardized MoonBoard Test in advanced-to-elite climbers
H. PENASSO: Reliability and validity of upper body impulse-related parameters to predict performance in elite youth climbers
P. BERTA: Evaluating the validity of the finger hang test as a measure of finger flexor endurance in sport climbers
A. MUSIL: Determination of Critical Force in Finger Flexor Muscles using Incremental test
15:00 – 16:30 Workshops
16:30 – 17:00 Coffee break
17:00 – 18:00 Workshops
18:00 – 19:00 IRCRA General Assembly
Thursday 7th August
9:00 – 12:00 Climbing (JamJam Boulder Gym) - departure 9 AM from the main entrance of the faculty
12:00 – 13:30 Lunch
13:30 – 15:00 Poster session: Health and social aspects - chair K. AUGSTE
V. STEIGAUF: The Effect of Acute Rock Climbing on Prefrontal-Cortex Dependent Cognitive Functioning
A. BURMAN: Rock Climbing as a driver of social change; case studies from India (Human Development as a gateway to socio-economic growth)
S. COEN: The Impact of Climbing on Cliff Vegetation: Insights from the MIREN Rocks Project
K. SPRINGHETTI: Rock climbing as a therapeutic tool – high-intensity training in cardiovascular patients
C. KAAR: The Role of Therapeutic Climbing in Child and Adolescent Mental Health and Wellbeing: A Systematic Literature Review
S. BEEKMEYER: Climbing Pixels - Image based techniques for creating climbable surfaces
V. TOMASELLI: A Comparative Analysis of Psychological Benefits in Sport Climbing vs Running
E. BONELLI: Augmented climbing as an inclusive activity for children with and without disability
A. ŠTĚPÁNOVÁ: Association of Upper Limb Hemodynamic Response with Thoracic Outlet Syndrome Tests
15:00 – 16:30 Oral session: Medicine - chair L. JOUBERT
G. GRøNHAUG, S. dEN HENGST, K. TUAñO and C. COOPER: Climbing Injuries: Trends, Risk Factors, and Treatment Approaches
16:30 – 17:00 Coffee break
17:00 – 18:30 Workshops
18:30 – 19:00 Lecture: S. MITÁČ Tradition of sandstone climbing
Friday 8th August
8:30 – 10:00 Oral session: Competition - chair M. S. IONEL
J. BOULANGER, E. TERRIEN, H. DI DOMENICO Bouldering competition simulation: a mixed method research
10:00 – 10:30 Coffee break
10:30 – 12:00 Workshops
12:00 – 13:30 Lunch
13:30 – 15:00 Poster session: Psychology - chair E. TERRIEN
C. A. TANASE: Impact of experience on hesitation in sports climbing
L. PLUMHANS: The effect of Route Previewing on performance, behavior and visuomotor skill in indoor bouldering
M. S. IONEL: Climbing anxiety scale (CAS-20): Preliminary development and validation
C. GANACHAUD: Route Previewing: a key to expertise in bouldering? an analysis of the climber’s lived experiences
F. SIMEN: Goal orientation, perceived coach behaviour, evaluative fear and training atmosphere among competitive youth climbers
in Germany and Japan.
Zs. NEMETI-FEHÉR: The Impact of Stressors on Athletic Performance and Burnout: Exploring the Mediating Role of Affect,
Intolerance of Uncertainty, Personality and Emotion Regulation in Professional Sport Climbers
C. DANNERBO: Regulatory Focus in the Self-Efficacy–Creativity Relationship in Climbing
15:00 – 16:30 Round table – future development of sport climbing - moderated by T. REED
L. SEIFERT - president of IRCRA, France
J. ZBRANEK - international route setter, Czechia
I. TORRABELLA - national sport climbing team coach, Australia
18:00 – Late CLOSING BANQUET - Inner courtyard of the faculty
Workshops
P. Wolf, K. Langer: IRCRA standard for determining the maximum force of the finger flexors
Standardized diagnostic protocols are essential for improving comparability across studies, enhancing reproducibility, and enabling long-term tracking of climbing performance. Despite the critical role of finger flexor strength—a well-established predictor of climbing performance—there is currently no standardized protocol for its assessment in climbing-specific contexts.
In this workshop, we aim to address this gap by developing a standardized test protocol for assessing maximum finger flexor strength in climbers. Based on existing evidence, we will present a detailed proposal covering various influencing factors, starting with warm-up and ending with signal processing. Each factor will be discussed in depth and your input will be instrumental in identifying open questions, refining possible protocols, and shaping preliminary recommendations.
Whether we can finalize this within the session or will need to establish a dedicated working group for further development remains to be determined. Ultimately, our aim is to publish an IRCRA recommendation for the standardized assessment of maximum finger flexor strength in climbing.
M. Michailov: A climbing-specific upper-body ergometer test for evaluating aerobic capacity at systemic level
Research has shown that climbing-specific aerobic capacity at a systemic level cannot be assessed by the traditionally used maximal exercise tests, nor by climbing to failure. A more suitable test for this purpose is the specialized upper-body ergometer test (UBT), which will be presented during this workshop. The protocol of UBT corresponds to the load pattern of the standard step tests and does not require isometric efforts. However, UBT is not an arm crank exercise. It is performed by pulling. During the seminar, participants will be introduced to the reasons why the UBT is preferable to climbing to failure and maximal bicycle or treadmill tests. Participants will also be able to try out the UBT and analyze the test results.
J. Baláš, H. di Domenico: Critical force in climbing - current state of knowledge and practical demonstration of tests for climbers
This workshop will introduce the concept of critical force, which distinguishes between metabolic steady-state and non-steady-state conditions and represents an important indicator for both diagnosis and training in climbing. A brief overview of current scientific knowledge will be provided with focus on practical demonstrations of four different testing protocols directly applicable to climbers. Participants will learn how to evaluate endurance and maximal capacities in a precise, evidence-based way, and how to interpret test results to guide individual training plans.
C. Augste:
Climbing terminology - overview of current state, group discussion
In this workshop, an overview is given of the different uses of terms for different types of climbing. The problem of terminology is illustrated by two studies: a survey conducted with climbing experts and a systematic literature review. This overview leads to suggestions for terminology, which will be discussed in groups.
Climbing terminology - IRCRA consensus statement
This workshop is the continuation of the first workshop on climbing terminology. The suggestions developed for naming and defining various climbing disciplines are to be adopted in a joint IRCRA consensus statement.
F. Ebenhoch, T. Javorský: Applied Blood Flow Restriction Training: From Physiology to Practice
This hands-on workshop focuses on the practical application of Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training, integrating cutting-edge physiological monitoring with performance training. Participants will engage directly with BFR protocols while utilizing Near-Infrared Spectroscopy (NIRS) and real-time signal analysis through the custom-developed application Tilboard.LabView—a tool designed and programmed at the University of Innsbruck. The session offers a unique opportunity to discuss both the technical aspects and practical implications of BFR training with the application's lead developer and a professional coach from Olympiazentrum Tirol.
N. CHOVANOVÁ, P. CHOVAN: Biomechanics and Motor Control of Climbing Grips: Applications for Training and Injury Prevention
This workshop focuses on the biomechanics and motor control of various climbing grips, highlighting their role in both performance enhancement and injury prevention. Participants will engage in hands-on practice of proper grip execution, covering both basic and advanced variations. Emphasis will be placed on identifying common technical faults that often lead to overuse injuries, and on strategies for targeted prevention. The session integrates physiotherapeutic and performance-oriented perspectives, providing practical insights for coaches, therapists, and athletes alike.
- F. Bertauld-Becourt, E. Pirodon: Force-Velocity Profile in Climbing – current state of knowledge and practical demonstration of simple evaluation methods for climbers
This workshop will present the concept of the force-velocity (F-V) profile applied to upper-body pulling actions in climbing. The F-V profile is a powerful tool for assessing individual mechanical capabilities, identifying performance limitations, and guiding targeted training interventions. A brief overview of the scientific literature on F-V profiling in climbing and related upper-body assessments will be provided. The session will focus on the practical application of a simple, field-friendly evaluation protocol, requiring minimal equipment, that allows climbers and coaches to assess key parameters such as maximal force at null velocity (F₀), maximal velocity at null force (V₀), and peak power (Pmax). Participants will learn how to conduct the test, analyze the results, and use them to optimize strength and power development in climbing training.
Oral sessions
MEDICINE
1. Climbing Injuries: Trends, Risk Factors, and Treatment Approaches
As climbing continues to grow in popularity, the incidence of climbing-related injuries has also increased. Understanding these injuries – how they have evolved over time, their common types, and associated risk factors – is essential for injury prevention and effective management. This talk will explore the latest findings on climbing injuries, highlighting pattern and trends, identifying potential risk factors, and assessing current treatment methods. By emphasizing evidence-based care and injury prevention strategies, this session aims to empower climbers and healthcare providers alike. The ultimate goal is to support evidence-based care and create a repository for centralized resources for managing climbing-related injuries.
NUTRITION
2. Bight Size Nutrition: Tying in with Scientific Evidence
From an historical perspective, sports nutrition within the sport climbing community has evolved swiftly and unfortunately with scientific neglect. The frequency of publications available on PubMed with key words like “food”, “diet”, “nutrition” and “rock climbing” or “rock climbers” over the past 15 years heavily outweighs the previous 100. Most of these published studies are observational and many have used meager methods. The evidence regarding what climbers have reported they consume and expend has revealed a relatively large discrepancy between the energy ingested from the daily diet compared to what was daily metabolized. Is methodology to blame or are climbers at risk for problematic energy availability? Is disordered eating the main issue or do climbers under fuel without intent? Additionally, some studies suggest vitamin and/or mineral insufficiency in certain climbing cohorts. Were these micronutrients under consumed, mal-absorbed, excreted in excess or hiding in tissues not measured? How shall we interpret this evidence? What are the risks for young developing climbers when inadequate nutrients are available to the body’s tissues? Finally, the types of dietary supplements and ergogenic aids used amongst climbers appears to be widespread with little scientific efficacy, which highlights an additional knowledge gap within this community. This session will provide answers to these questions and summarize the current evidence.
MOTOR LEARNING
3. The Theory of Internal Models for Motor Learning and Motor Control: Theoretical Framework and Practical Implications for Sport Climbing
The theory of internal models is a recently developed concept in motor learning and motor control (Wolpert et al.). It integrates ideas from prescriptive program theories (e.g., Schmidt, 1975) with the principles of dynamic systems theory (e.g., Haken et al., 1975). Its foundation lies in the "ideomotor principle," which posits that imagining a movement’s effect guides its control.
Developed at the end of the last century, the theory of internal models explains the learning process of imagining movement outcomes. This requires a predictor model (or forward model) that learns to anticipate the effects of specific motor commands to muscles in given environmental conditions. The learning of the predictor model occurs through self-organization and can be simulated with artificial neural networks. For effective movement execution, a control model (or inverse model) is also necessary. This model is learned via self-organization, where deviations from the desired movement goal serve as error signals.
The oral presentation will be divided into two parts. The first part will introduce the fundamental principles of the theory of internal models. The second part will discuss practical examples of improving the forward model for maintaining balance.
TRAINING AND TESTING
4. Climbing diagnostics - The gorge and the bridge between science and practice
Performance diagnostics in climbing have become increasingly important, mainly for identifying performance deficits and evaluating training outcomes, providing valuable insights into climbing performance. In recent years, a wide variety of tests and measurement methods have been developed, however, this also resulted in inconsistencies among diagnostic tests. Moreover, research indicates that only a few studies assessed the quality of the used tests, and many lack adequate descriptions regarding the ability level, gender, and primary discipline of the subjects involved. Initial reviews of this topic and efforts to develop and validate sport-specific tests for climbing have revealed poor test criteria, both for test reliability and validity for many tests. Additionally, numerous tests can only differentiate between specific performance groups, complicating the analysis and comparison of training intervention effects. Consequently, both researchers and practitioners face challenges in selecting appropriate tests for their diagnostic test batteries. Additionally, a significant gap exists in the integration and interpretation of test results due to the absence of comprehensive databases. This panel aims to provide an overview of high-quality tests and measurement methods to assess the physical characteristics in sports climbing. We will also engage in discussions about standardized testing protocols, particularly for varying performance levels, and the need for robust data repositories from a research and practical perspective. Furthermore, a world- class athlete will share valuable insights based on his experiences with diagnostic tools and his views on the subject.
5. Blood Flow Restriction Training: Mechanisms, Adaptations, and Performance Implications
Low-load resistance training with blood flow restriction (LLBFR), consists in realizing an exercise at low intensity (~20 – 40 %MVC) with a pneumatic cuff inflated at the proximal part of the limb to reduce arterial inflow and block venous outflow. By reducing O2 supply and metabolic waste products removal, LLBFR amplifies metabolic stress and leads to fast muscle exhaustion at low intensity. LLBFR training is often presented as an alternative to high-intensity exercise training and can be interesting in climbing performance and rehabilitation to reduce mechanical load whereby beneficiate from muscle adaptation. The first presentation, from Tomas Javorsky aims to describe the underlying factors explaining muscle adaptations to BFR training. It will be followed by a presentation from Titouan Perrin designed to provide an overview of past and present research on LLBFR training for climbing performance. The third presentation led by Fabien Ebenchoch from Olympiazentrum Tirol, Innsbruck will delve into specific principles and experiences from athletes.
PSYCHOLOGY
6. Bouldering competition simulation: a mixed method research
A key performance factor of bouldering in competition is to manage the 4 minutes given to perform each boulder. Climbers must manage time spent to observe the boulder, to brush the holds between attempts, to climb, to recover between attempts and to look at the timer. This oral session is composed of 3 presenters contributing to a mixed method research combining computer sciences and experimental psychology in order to inform the coach on how climbers manage the 4 minutes allowed to each boulder in competition. Data collection and analysis relate to video tracking of motor behaviour, gaze behaviour and phenomenological data related to intentions, perceptions and actions. As wearing an eye tracking system in competition, the data of this experiment are based on bouldering competition simulation in one boulder. By combining objective and subjective data, coaches can access both to lived experience and to objective metrics of visual-motor behaviour to then train climbers to better manage time and activity during bouldering competition.
